Upcycling & Repurpose

Lily Flower with Butterfly Drawing

By Serina Elvaris·21 min read·Updated Jul 9, 2026

Lily Flower with Butterfly drawing before after transformation is the easiest way I know to turn a flat, boring piece into something that looks "styled" in under an hour. I've done this 15 times on old items - the fastest results come when the lily is centered and the butterfly sits just off the midline. The before usually looks like plain fabric or a scratched surface; the after looks like it belongs in a vintage print. If your drawing feels messy, it's almost always because the outline is too thick or the background paint isn't sealed. This guide shows my exact layering order and sizing so you get a clean, airy lily with a butterfly that actually reads from across the room.

When I plan a Lily Flower with Butterfly drawing transformation, I start with one decision: do I want a "soft botanical" look or a "clean graphic" look. Soft botanical uses thin pencil lines or a very light marker under watercolor-style paint, then I deepen only the darkest petal folds. Clean graphic uses a slightly thicker outline and flat color blocks - it reads better on dark denim, tote bags, and thrifted tees. Either way, the lily has to look like it has weight. I do that by making the center petals darker and letting the outer petals fade toward the edges.

Sizing is where people usually lose the look. For most upcycles, I draw the lily head about 3.5 to 4 inches tall on a small item (like a clutch, book cover, or pocket panel) and about 6 to 7 inches tall on a wide surface (like a pillow front or thrifted canvas jacket). The butterfly should be smaller than the lily head, roughly 60-70% of the lily's height, and placed so its wings "reach" toward the lily, not away from it. That placement makes the drawing feel intentional even when the item is imperfect.

The key principle that makes these transformations look finished is sealing after every paint phase you care about. I do one quick sketch, then I paint or color, then I seal. If you skip sealing, the next layer smears the lines and the butterfly turns muddy. For fabric I use a fabric-safe sealant (or heat-set paint when the brand says heat-set), and for wood or metal I use a clear topcoat that won't yellow. That one habit is why my before pieces look like they got a new life instead of just getting scribbled on.

1. Denim Pocket Lily with Tiny Butterfly Corner

A close-up of a thrifted light-blue denim jacket pocket. A white lily with pale pink shading sits centered on the pocket, and a small orange-and-cream butterfly perches near the pocket's top-right seam. Black outline lines are crisp, and the fabric texture shows through the paint slightly.

This one looks best on light-wash denim because the background acts like a built-in watercolor paper. I draw the lily head in soft white with a faint pink center, then I deepen the petal folds with rose pigment - it keeps the flower airy instead of heavy. The butterfly is smaller and placed near a corner so it looks like it landed, not like it's floating. This combo flatters casual outfits and works on all skin tones because the colors stay bright and clean. If you wear denim a lot, this turns a plain jacket pocket into an intentional detail without changing the silhouette.

Start by washing and fully drying the jacket so the paint grips. Mark a rectangle on the pocket about 3.75 inches wide, then sketch the lily head so its base sits just above the pocket's lower seam. Outline with a fine black fabric marker, then fill petals with watered-down off-white paint and glaze pink only in the inner folds. Place the butterfly so its wings overlap the lily stem line by about a quarter inch. Finally, heat-set or seal with fabric-safe clear coat, then let it cure flat for 24 hours before wearing.

Good to knowPress the pocket with a warm iron through parchment before drawing so the lines don't crack on creases.

Common mistakeDon't use thick paint straight from the bottle on denim - it sits on top and makes the lily look like a sticker.

2. Candle Jar Lily Label with Butterfly Wing Tips

A clear glass candle jar wrapped with a narrow paper label. On the label, a tall lily in muted cream and blush rises upward, and a butterfly sits at the top edge with wings extending to the label's corners. The background is off-white, and the lines are thin and tidy.

This is the prettiest option when you want the drawing to look like it came from a shop label. I keep the lily cream with light blush shading so it matches the glass reflections. The butterfly wings are painted with a warm apricot wash and small darker dots near the tips - that detail makes it look alive. It's flattering for kitchens and bathrooms because the soft palette looks clean next to stainless steel and white tile. If you like "quiet pretty," this is your move.

Start by wiping the jar with rubbing alcohol so the label adhesive sticks. Print or hand-cut a label strip to fit the jar circumference, then sketch the lily centered on the strip with a height around 5.5 inches. Paint the petals in two passes: first a thin cream wash, then a second blush glaze only where petals overlap. Add the butterfly at the top so the wings touch the label edges, then seal the label with a clear matte decoupage medium. Smooth it down and let it dry overnight before putting it back on the shelf.

Good to knowUse matte sealant for the label so glare doesn't wash out the butterfly dots.

Common mistakeDon't try to paint directly on the glass unless you're using glass-specific paint - standard craft paint peels from the smooth surface.

3. Thrift Tee Back Print Lily with Butterfly Trail

A black t-shirt shown from the back. A large lily in pale cream sits high on the center back, and a butterfly in warm gold appears slightly to the right with a faint line trail that curves toward the flower. The lettering is absent; only the drawing fills the space.

Dark tees need contrast, so I keep the lily bright and slightly opaque instead of watercolor-sheer. The lily is cream with soft gray-lilac shading in the folds, then I add a tiny dot cluster at the center to mimic pollen. The butterfly is warm gold with soft brown outline - it reads clearly on black without looking childish. This design flatters most body types because it sits near the upper back and draws the eye upward. It also looks great with jeans, leggings, and even a blazer because the art feels intentional, not random.

Start by laying the shirt flat and taping a piece of cardboard inside so paint doesn't bleed through. Measure where you want the lily: I place the top of the lily about 2.5 inches below the collar seam for an adult small/medium. Sketch the lily head and stem in pencil, then outline with a fabric marker. Fill petals with cream paint in thin layers, letting each layer dry 10 minutes before the next. Add the butterfly to the right of the stem line and paint a small curved "trail" line so the composition feels connected. Seal with fabric-safe clear coat after the final layer dries.

Good to knowIf your black tee pills, trim the fuzz with scissors first so the paint sits evenly.

Common mistakeDon't place the lily too low on the back - it makes the shirt look like it has a stain.

4. Wood Tray Lily Centerpiece with Butterfly in Negative Space

A small round wooden tray with a light sanding finish. A lily is painted in white and pale pink at the center, while the butterfly is outlined in dark brown and left mostly unfilled so the wood grain shows through its wings.

This looks expensive because the wood grain becomes part of the art. I paint the lily petals in thin white and pale pink so they sit softly on the surface, then I keep the butterfly mostly as an outline. Leaving the butterfly wings open - letting the wood show - gives it that airy, vintage print feeling. It flatters warm-toned decor because the brown outline matches oak, walnut, and honey woods. If you're building a set of matching home items, this one ties everything together.

Start by sanding the tray lightly with 220 grit and wiping off dust with a tack cloth. Sketch a lily centered on the tray, about 3.5 inches tall, with the stem lines extending slightly downward. Paint petals with a watered white acrylic, then glaze pale pink where petals overlap. For the butterfly, outline with a fine brush using dark brown paint and add a few dot details, but don't fill the entire wings. Seal with two thin coats of clear matte or satin varnish, letting each coat dry fully.

Good to knowUse a round stencil or a printed lily template to keep petal symmetry without redrawing a dozen times.

Common mistakeDon't use thick varnish on top of wet paint - it can drag pigment and blur the butterfly outline.

5. Canvas Tote Lily Arch with Butterfly Landing Strip

A natural canvas tote bag laid flat. A lily arch spans the upper front panel, with petals fading from cream to blush. A butterfly sits on a thin painted stem strip near the right handle seam.

Natural canvas is forgiving. The lily looks crisp when you use a light base color and then add darker petal folds, and the butterfly reads like a little accent rather than the main event. I like this composition because it frames the tote handles and makes the bag feel structured even when it's empty. The cream and blush palette works with denim, black leggings, and summer dresses. This one is perfect for everyday use because it doesn't get fussy with too many tiny details.

Start by ironing the tote flat and tracing a gentle arc across the top front panel. Draw the lily so the arch starts near the left handle seam and ends near the right, with the tallest petal centered. Outline lightly, then paint petals in cream and blush in three layers: base wash, inner fold glaze, then a final thin line for petal edges. Add the butterfly on a "landing strip" - a thin stem line you paint under the butterfly so it looks grounded. Seal with fabric medium or fabric-safe clear coat after paint dries.

Good to knowPaint the petal edges with a smaller brush than you think you need - it keeps the lines delicate.

Common mistakeDon't let the arc drift - if one side is higher, the lily looks lopsided like a tilted poster.

6. Picture Frame Lily Corner Fill with Butterfly Accent

A distressed white picture frame close-up. The top-left corner has a painted lily with pale yellow center, and a butterfly in soft peach hovers near the inner edge. The frame corners look hand-finished with slight texture.

Frames are where I see the biggest "before and after" jump. The lily corner fill makes the frame look custom, even if the photo inside is simple. I paint the lily in pale yellow and cream, then add a thin wash of light peach on the petals. The butterfly is smaller and tucked near the inner corner so it doesn't compete with the artwork you put in the frame. This works well for warm skin tones and cozy living rooms because the colors sit between neutral and soft color. If you hang family photos, it makes the whole wall look curated without doing an overhaul.

Start by scuffing the frame with 220 grit so paint grips, then wipe dust off. Mix cream paint with a tiny bit of yellow for the lily center. Sketch the lily corner so it fits inside a 4x4 inch square in the top-left corner. Outline in dark brown instead of black for a softer antique vibe. Fill petals with cream and add peach wash only where petals overlap. Finish by sealing the painted areas with matte varnish, then attach or replace the glass and backing only after the varnish cures.

Good to knowUse brown outline for corners - black can look harsh against distressed white paint.

Common mistakeDon't cover the whole frame with paint - keep the lily limited to the corner so the texture stays attractive.

7. Ceramic Mug Lily Stem Wrap with Butterfly on Handle

A white ceramic mug photographed at a slight angle. A lily stem wraps around the mug with petals in off-white and blush. A butterfly perches near the handle, painted so its wings align with the handle curve.

Mugs are tricky because heat and washing attack paint, so I only use designs that I seal properly. The lily stem wrap looks best when you keep the lily tall and narrow, so it follows the mug's curve instead of flattening. I paint petals in off-white with blush shading, then add tiny dots on the center to mimic pollen. The butterfly sits on the handle side, which makes it feel like it's part of the mug's shape. This looks flattering on any kitchen style because white ceramics make the art pop without needing loud colors.

Start by degreasing the mug with rubbing alcohol. Sketch a vertical lily stem so it wraps around the mug - leave about half an inch of spacing between stem lines and the mug's rim. Paint petals with thin off-white layers, then glaze blush in the inner folds. Outline the butterfly in fine brown and add small wing dots in darker peach. Use ceramic paint meant for mugs and cure it according to the brand instructions, then apply a food-safe sealant if the product says it's allowed. Let it fully cool before washing - I wait 72 hours the first time.

Good to knowChoose a butterfly with simpler wing patterns for mugs so edges don't chip from repeated washing.

Common mistakeDon't put the lily too close to where your hand grips - your thumb rub will wear it off.

8. Glass Vase Lily with Butterfly at the Shoulder

A clear glass vase with a painted lily on the front. The lily is cream with pale pink shading. A butterfly sits near the vase shoulder, with wings outlined in dark brown and a few translucent-looking peach fills.

Clear glass makes the drawing feel floating, especially if you use semi-transparent paint. I paint the lily in layers: first a thin cream wash, then pale pink in the folds so the petals look dimensional. The butterfly goes near the shoulder because that's where you can see it when the vase is on a table. I keep the butterfly outline crisp and the fills lighter so it doesn't look like a sticker stuck to glass. This works in bright rooms because light passes through the colors. It also pairs well with real lilies or dried grasses without looking theme-y.

Start by cleaning the vase with glass cleaner and then alcohol wipe. Mask the rim with painter's tape if you don't want paint there. Sketch a lily centered on the front panel with a height around 6 inches for a medium vase. Paint petals with thin translucent coats, letting each coat dry before adding blush shading. Outline the butterfly with a fine brush, then paint just the inner wing sections with a light peach wash. Seal with a glass-specific clear coating if your paint requires it, then let the vase cure away from dust for the full time on the paint label.

Good to knowUse a foam brush for big petals so you don't leave streaks on the glass.

Common mistakeDon't use matte acrylic on glass unless it's sealed well - it can look chalky and scuff easily.

9. Shoe Side Lily Stripe with Butterfly Charm Look

A pair of white sneakers with a painted lily stripe along the outer side panel. A butterfly is painted near the midfoot in soft yellow and peach, with tiny dot accents that look like a charm.

Shoes are where this drawing style gets attention fast. I like a side stripe because it keeps the art aligned with the shoe's shape and doesn't fight the laces. The lily is painted in cream with light pink shading so it pops on white leather or canvas. The butterfly gets slightly darker outline and small dot details so it looks crisp even when the shoe flexes. This flatters smaller feet because the stripe is placed along the side and doesn't swallow the whole shoe. For casual wear, it adds personality without turning the shoes into a costume.

Start by cleaning the shoe surface and roughing it lightly with a fine sanding block if it's glossy leather. Sketch a vertical lily stripe about 1.5 inches wide on the outer side panel. Outline with a fabric or leather paint marker depending on the material, then paint petals with thin layers of cream and blush. Add a tiny stem line so the lily looks connected to the stripe. Place the butterfly near the midfoot and paint it about 2 inches wide, with wings slightly angled toward the toe. Seal with a flexible clear shoe sealant after paint cures.

Good to knowPaint on the shoes when they're fully dry and at room temperature - cold surfaces make paint crack.

Common mistakeDon't paint over creases while the shoe is bent - the first wear will crack the outline.

10. Book Cover Lily Spine with Butterfly Bookmark Tab

A handmade fabric book cover with a lily painted down the spine area. The butterfly sits near the top of the spine, and there is a small painted tab that sticks out like a bookmark. Colors are cream, blush, and soft brown linework.

Fabric book covers look so much better with a spine design. It makes the cover look intentional even when the book sits on a shelf with other plain covers. I paint a lily on the spine area because it follows the natural vertical line and makes the butterfly feel like it's perched at the top. The palette stays soft - cream petals, blush folds, and a brown outline. This flatters small spaces because it doesn't take over the entire front. It also makes the book easy to find visually.

Start with a clean fabric cover and iron it flat. Measure the spine panel width and sketch a lily about 7 inches tall down the center of the spine. Outline in soft brown, then fill petals in cream with blush shading only where petals overlap. Paint a tiny stem and one or two small leaf suggestions so the lily doesn't look like it's floating. Add the butterfly near the top and align it with the spine so it doesn't tilt sideways. For the bookmark tab, paint a simplified butterfly wing on the tab edge and seal the whole cover with fabric-safe clear coat.

Good to knowUse painter's tape as a guide for the spine - it keeps the lily straight without re-measuring every time.

Common mistakeDon't over-detail the butterfly on a spine - tiny wing patterns blur when the fabric stretches.

11. Wall Art Scrap Panel Lily with Butterfly Overpainted Edges

A small wooden scrap panel mounted on a wall. The panel shows a lily in cream and pale pink, and a butterfly sits near the lily with parts of the wings painted over the panel's rough edges. The edges have visible grain and paint transitions.

This look is for when you love texture and you want the drawing to match it. The rough edges make the butterfly feel like it's part of the wood, not printed on top. I paint the lily in semi-opaque cream so the grain doesn't disappear, then I add pink shading in petal folds. The butterfly gets deeper brown outline and a few controlled overpaint strokes that follow the grain. This flatters modern rooms because the texture keeps it from looking too delicate. It also makes a cheap scrap panel look like a planned art piece.

Start by sanding only the flat area lightly and leaving the edges rough. Apply a thin base coat if your wood is very uneven, then let it dry. Sketch the lily centered with a 6-inch height, and keep the stem lines simple. Paint petals in cream with a pale pink glaze, leaving some grain showing in the lighter areas. Outline the butterfly and then intentionally paint part of the wing over the edge so it wraps visually around the panel. Finish with a clear satin topcoat that protects the paint but doesn't fully smooth the grain.

Good to knowIf your grain is wild, use a bigger brush for petals and a smaller one only for the outline - it keeps texture from looking accidental.

Common mistakeDon't fill the entire panel smooth - the rough edge effect is what makes this style look real.

12. Metal Tin Lily with Butterfly on Lid Hinge

A small metal tin with a hinged lid. The lid has a centered lily in white and soft pink, and a butterfly sits right near the hinge line. The metal shows through slightly around the painted areas.

Metal tins take paint differently, so the key is thin coats and good adhesion. The lily looks clean when you keep the petals bright and the center slightly darker, then you add a soft gray-lilac shadow under the petals. The butterfly on the hinge is a fun placement because the viewer sees it when they open the tin. I use a fine brown outline so it doesn't look like a sticker on shiny metal. This is great for organizing buttons, hair clips, or tea bags because the art makes the tin feel like decor.

Start by scrubbing the tin with dish soap, then dry completely. Lightly sand the painted area with 400 grit so the paint grips. Prime if the tin is glossy and paint doesn't stick - I've learned the hard way. Sketch the lily on the lid center with a height around 4.5 inches. Paint petals in white with a pale pink inner fold, then add a slightly darker shadow line near the base of each petal. Paint the butterfly near the hinge so its wings straddle the hinge line visually, then seal with a metal-safe clear coat.

Good to knowUse painter's tape to mask the hinge area if you want crisp edges around the butterfly outline.

Common mistakeDon't skip sanding on glossy tins - paint will chip at the first bump.

13. Ceramic Tile Coaster Lily with Butterfly Corner Signature

Four ceramic coasters on a table, each with a lily drawing. One coaster is highlighted: a cream lily with blush shading sits near the center, and a small butterfly is painted in the bottom-right corner. The finish is glossy and smooth.

Coasters are the fastest way to use your drawing skills without committing to a big project. The lily stays readable because the surface is flat, and the butterfly in a corner feels like a signature. I paint the lily with a clean cream base and blush shading, then I add a tiny dot cluster at the center for realism. The butterfly gets a warm peach wash with darker dot accents. This works in any kitchen because cream and blush sit between farmhouse and modern. It also makes your mug-and-cup setup look coordinated when you group them together.

Start with clean ceramic tiles and wipe with alcohol. Sketch a lily about 3 inches tall near the center and outline with a thin waterproof marker. Paint petals with acrylic made for ceramics or ceramic paint, using watered-down coats for smooth coverage. Add blush shading only in the inner petal folds and keep the outer edges lighter. Paint a small butterfly in the bottom-right corner so it looks like it belongs to the tile, not like it's floating. Seal with multiple thin clear coats, then add cork or felt pads underneath once fully cured.

Good to knowUse a waterproof marker for the outline so it doesn't bleed when you paint over it.

Common mistakeDon't rush the curing time - early stacking smears the butterfly dots.

14. Upcycled Picture Mat Lily Line Art with Butterfly in the Margin

A thrifted off-white picture mat board inside a frame. Thin line art of a lily is drawn in graphite-like gray, and a small butterfly is placed in the margin near the top-right corner. The lines are crisp and minimal, with no heavy fill colors.

This is the "I want it subtle" version that still looks intentional. I keep the lily mostly as line art, then I add one light wash of pale pink on the inner petals so it doesn't look flat. The butterfly stays in the margin area, small and slightly tilted, so it feels like it's part of the design rather than an afterthought. This works especially well for people who wear neutral clothes and like clean styling. It also looks great under glass because the lines stay sharp and protected. If you hate loud color, this style wins.

Start by cleaning the mat board and removing any dust. Lightly sketch the lily lines with a pencil so you can erase easily. Outline the lily with a fine archival pen in gray-brown, then add a tiny blush wash with a small round brush inside only two or three inner petals. Place the butterfly in the top-right margin and keep it mostly line-based with a few peach dot accents. Let it dry fully, then seal the drawing with a light spray fixative meant for paper. Frame it under glass so it stays protected from humidity.

Good to knowUse a pencil grid transfer if you want the lily proportions to match a template exactly.

Common mistakeDon't press hard with the pencil - deep graphite lines show through and make the final art look messy.

15. Resin Keychain Lily with Butterfly Wing Tint

A clear resin keychain shaped like a rounded teardrop. Inside the resin, a small lily in white and blush is visible, and a butterfly sits near the top with tinted wings in peach and light gold. The edges look glossy and smooth.

Resin is where your drawing looks like it's trapped in glass, and that changes everything. I paint the lily in a simple two-tone style because resin magnifies detail. The lily looks best when the petals are white with blush shading that stays soft at the edges. The butterfly gets a tiny tint - peach with light gold highlights - so the wings catch light as the keychain moves. This looks great on bags, especially when your bag hardware is silver or gunmetal. It also makes a practical upcycle item feel like a collectible.

Start by printing or drawing your lily and butterfly on thin paper, then cut them small enough for your mold. Apply a thin layer of clear resin to the bottom of the mold and place the cut art carefully. Add a second thin resin layer to cover the paper so it doesn't show through too much. Keep the butterfly near the top of the mold so it reads when the keychain swings. Cure according to your resin instructions, then pop out the keychain and polish the edges lightly if needed. Finish with a jump ring and a key loop hardware piece.

Good to knowUse matte paper for the printed art so the resin looks even, not cloudy.

Common mistakeDon't overfill the mold - thick resin can create bubbles and distort the butterfly wings.

Your questions, answered

How long does a Lily Flower with Butterfly drawing on fabric last?

If you use fabric-safe paint or heat-set paint and seal it properly, it lasts through regular wear. I've had pieces stay decent for months, but the fastest wear shows up on areas that get rubbed - like cuffs, waistbands, and underbag straps. Wash inside out on cold and skip the dryer for the longest life.

What does this usually cost if I'm upcycling thrift finds?

Most of my cost is paint and sealant, not the base item. A small bottle of fabric paint or acrylic plus clear sealant usually runs under the price of a single new decor print. If you already have brushes and markers, you can keep it close to a few dollars per project.

Where do I get materials for these transformations?

I buy fabric paints, fabric markers, and fabric sealant at craft stores, and I grab clear topcoats for wood and metal from the same aisle. For ceramic and resin, I use products labeled for those surfaces so curing and adhesion behave correctly. Jump rings and key hardware come from jewelry supply sections or small online packs.

Is this beginner-friendly if I can't draw well?

Yes, because you can transfer the lily shape. I use a printed template on paper and trace it lightly, then I outline with a fine marker once I'm happy. Start with line art on a mat or a coaster if you're new - it forgives mistakes better than detailed butterfly wing patterns.

How do I care for sealed art on glass or ceramic?

For glass and ceramic, wait the full cure time the product label asks for. After that, wipe gently with a damp cloth instead of soaking. For mugs and coasters, avoid abrasive sponges so the butterfly dots don't scrape off.

Can I change the butterfly colors to match my home decor?

Absolutely. I stick to one warm base (peach, apricot, or soft gold) and one darker accent (brown or burnt umber) so the butterfly stays readable. Change the lily shading too - cream plus blush looks clean, but cream plus lilac also works if your room is cooler-toned.